The Sinai Bedouin
a photographic journey
by Zoltan Matrahazi
Smashwords Edition
Copyright 2011, Zoltan Matrahazi
License Notes:
This free ebook may be copied, distributed, reposted, reprinted and shared, provided it appears in its entirety without alteration, and the reader is not charged to access it.
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For further information and other publications about the Sinai, by this and other authors, visit www.discoversinai.net.
ISBN 978-1-4660-9200-6
Cover photo: Bedouin man with camel and the Jebel Barqa ranges in the background.
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Introduction
Although the Sinai is part of Egypt, it is a very distinct region. While the mainland is in Africa, the Sinai, separated by the Suez Canal, is in Asia. It is a barren and inhospitable - but very diverse and stunningly beautiful - desert wilderness that has been inhabited by nomadic Arab tribes, the Bedouin. Most of the Bedouin are from the Arabian Peninsula originally, arriving in several waves before and after the Arab conquest. Culturally the Bedouin are still closer to these roots than to Egypt - some tribes actually expand across borders - and refer to themselves as the Arabs.
Life has been simple and tough, with little possessions, living at the mercy of the elements. Relying mostly on their herds of sheep and goats to survive, the Bedouin used to move around seasonally to provide grazing for the animals. They also owned date palms in oases and used to hunt and fish. Important to survival in the desert, the camel is the symbol of Bedouin life and most families still own camels.
However, life is changing rapidly. Most of the Bedouin today are settled in or close to towns, live in stone houses, have cars, satellite TVs and mobile phones. A lot is being lost, but in a changing world you have to adapt. The desert cannot sustain their lives anymore as in the past. People's needs have changed, there are bills to pay, kids have to go to school - and there aren't enough rains anyway these days to provide grazing for all. There is now a new generation of educated Bedouin coming and - paradoxically - they are the ones who realize best the importance of their traditions. I believe it is possible to find a balance, you can have the best of both worlds. There are still quite a few families who live permanently or seasonally in the desert and mountains and I hope there will always be some - using new technologies though, but essentially living the traditional way. It is a simple and slow but very beautiful and rewarding life: close to earth, close to each other and close to god.
Following are glimpses of Bedouin life and their natural environment in forty images, followed by brief information for visitors to the Sinai.
Part I: A photographic journey
Inhabited by Bedouin tribes - the Arabs - the Sinai is a vast wilderness with a variety of landscapes.
There are open sandy plains and high dunes.
There are wind- and rain-carved sandstone ranges.
Maize of winding wadis and high plateaus.
In many places narrow canyons can be found at the base of mountains.
There is water - and life - in the desert: a hidden green oasis.
The view of the vast desert from a flat-topped mountain.
There are higher and more rugged mountains in the center.
In the high mountains there is at least a little snow every winter - it is always a blessing.
In the past there was more precipitation, locals recall. Snow is better than rain, as the water doesn't run off but soaks into the ground.
Water gushes down the wadis after rains and some creeks might run till mid summer.
There are a few permanent water pools and many seasonal ones in the Sinai.
Water trickles under the ground as lush Bedouin orchards attest.
There is less water in the lower lying wadis, but there are wells and springs all over Sinai - you just have to know where.
One way or another, all wadis lead to the sea.
Floodplains have formed at the mouth of wadis where flash-floods from the mountains hit the sea occasionally, bringing sand and rocks.
Still found in some places, in the past the Bedouin lived in goat-hair tents all year round.
Every household and settlement has a maqad - an area where guests are welcomed. Family or tribal matters are also discussed in the maqad.
Today most Bedouin live in stone or brick buildings, but there is always a designated area - indoors or outdoors - serving as the maqad.
These days mostly tape-recorders and mobile phones provide music, but the traditional simsimiya - even if from new materials - is still popular.
Women and kids might be present in the maqad, depending on the circumstances, but they have their own private area called mahram. In accordance with tradition women are not pictured in this publication.
The Bedouin eat together and guests are always welcome, either it is a family meal or a community event.
One of the staple foods of the Bedouin is bread, which they still make themselves in most households. One type, called fateer in the local dialect, is thin and soft…
…and baked on a hot metal sheet. In many households today it's done on gas, but it can be baked easily in the wilderness: a metal sheet, along with other simple utensils, is usually left at water sources.
Another type of bread, called libba or libbat naar, requires even less equipment and is easy to make anywhere in the desert.
Baked in hot ashes, the delicious libba is a thick and crusty bread.
The Bedouin are Muslims and religion forms an important part of life.
The Sinai is holy to three religions and different faiths coexist in peace and mutual respect.
The camel is still very important part of Bedouin life and identity. Survival in the desert without it would be impossible.
However, Bedouin life is at the crossroad of traditions and modernity.
Sheep and goats used to be the backbone of the Bedouin economy and are still kept by most families even in urban settings.
It is usually the responsibility of the boys to look after donkeys, they are still used as beasts of burden.
In the desert the date palm is the main food plant. Apart from the fruit, the palm provides leaves, timber, fuel and fiber as well.
The Bedouin have always grown some vegetables seasonally where it is possible. In the high mountains there is also a wide selection of fruits, including apricot, apple, peach, quince and almonds.
There are still some people like this silversmith who make authentic handicrafts, but many traditions are dying out.
Women work together on embroidery or weave carpets and rugs, using recycled materials or cotton threads. Weaving with goat and sheep hair is only done in North Sinai these days.
Many people work on safaris and treks as guides, cooks or cameleers.
Others work as drivers - either driving 4x4s, taxis, microbuses, trucks or heavy machinery.
Although seasonally, but the Bedouin have always lived on the coast as well, not only in the desert. To this day many still fish.
The Bedouin have entered the new age of ever faster technological advancement. Hurry is from the devil, according to a Bedouin saying, but you cannot stop time.
Part II: Information for visitors
The Sinai is often visited as part of a bigger Egypt or Middle East tour, but many people fly in directly to stay only in South Sinai. There are airports at Sharm el Sheikh and Taba with international and domestic flights. There are several major airlines flying to Sharm el Sheikh as well as many budget airlines. Overland there is bus connection from Cairo and mainland Egypt to the Sinai via Suez, as well as a ferry plying between Hurghada and Sharm el Sheikh. You can enter the Sinai from Israel at Taba, and there are ferry services connecting Taba and Nuweiba to the port city of Aqaba in Jordan.
Most visitors to Egypt need a visa to enter, which can be obtained on arrival at the port of entry for around $15. If you are only going to stay in the resort towns of Sharm el Sheikh, Dahab, Nuweiba or Taba and for 14 days or less, you do not need a visa. You can visit St. Katherine or go to El Tor (the administrative capital) without a visa, but excursions to places such as Ras Mohamed National Park, Cairo or Luxor are not allowed. If you are planning to visit the Sinai more extensively or go to mainland Egypt, the best is to obtain a visa at arrival - it is easy and fast and can be paid in any major currency.
There is a regular although infrequent public bus service connecting the Sinai resort towns, but to St. Katherine your options are more limited. Most hotels organize a mid-night tour, or you can take a taxi or microbus - either alone or shared with others. There is also a new service called Bedouin Bus which operates a regular run.
There is a wide range of accommodation in the Sinai ranging from high-end luxury hotels to simple beach camps and ecolodges. Safaris and treks involve camping in the open desert under the sky or in Bedouin gardens, which is an experience not to be missed.
There are several operators offering 4x4 and camel safaris as well as walks and treks. You can book in advance or organize a program spontaneously on the spot. My suggestion is to choose a local small-medium company that works with the Bedouin communities - they tend to be more responsible and definitely more authentic.
Other specialty programs are provided by some operators, such as yoga, meditation, rock-climbing, star-gazing, botanical, religious or historical tourism.
Useful websites:
• About South Sinai: discoversinai.net
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About St. Katherine and the High Mountains: st-katherine.net
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Transport in Sinai: bedouinbus.com
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About Egypt: alternativeegypt.com
Glossary
Arab - the Bedouin call themselves the Arabs and it is used synonymously with Bedouin.
Bedouin - in Arabic bedu, it means desert dwelling nomadic people, the Arabs.
Beit el Shaar - tent made of goat and sheep hair.
Bier - water well, often part of geographical names.
Ein - literally meaning eye, it means spring or oasis in geographical names.
Fateer - the thin and soft bread made on hot metal sheet.
Jebel - mountain. Pronounced differently than in the Egyptian dialect, where it sounds gebel.
Libba or Libbat Naar - the thick and crusty bread made in hot ahses.
Mahram - the women's and kids private quarter.
Maqad - the guest area where men meet, sit, drink tea and relax. It is where gests eat and sleep if they stay longer, and also used as a place to discuss family or tribal matters.
Safari - in Arabic generally it means traveling, either on camel or - these days - by car or jeep.
Simsimiya - a harp-like traditional musical instrument.
Wadi - valley, these are basically dry river beds that have running water in them occasionally.
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