BASIC SKINCARE MANUAL

by CAROLYN E JOHNSON

Licensed Esthetician

OVERVIEW OF SKIN

Our skin is a very important part of our bodies that we often take for granted. Without it we’d fall apart, be covered with bacteria-caused infection and our organs would be severely burned by the sun’s rays. We wouldn’t be aware of the dangers in our environment that could burn, freeze or puncture our other organs. We wouldn’t be able to cool off when we get overheated or warm ourselves when we feel a chill. If our skin didn’t grow as our body grows, we’d explode like an over inflated balloons.

Our skin consists of 8 layers and is about the thickness of a sheet of paper. It is thinnest at our eyelids and thickest on the palms of our hands and soles of our feet. Despite its thinness, the skin of a 6’ tall adult male weighs about 5 pounds and measures about 18 square feet.

Each skin cell is created at the deepest layer of our skin and then is pushed upwards by new cells formed below it. When a cell reaches the surface of our skin it is completely dead and is then worn away, through friction, in order to make way for the next layer of cells. This process takes approximately 28 days so that we have a new surface layer every month. This process slows as we age so that the dead skin cells pile up on the surface leaving us with dry, dehydrated skin. This is the most common cause for skin looking dead or lifeless.

Some skin facts:

• 95% of house dust is composed of dead skin cells

• Three things that irritate our skin the most are artificial dyes, fragrance and alcohol.

• Our skin contains ¼ of our body’s blood supply.

• Each square inch of skin contains:

o o 65 hairs

100 oil glands

9.5 million cells

13 nerve endings

650 sweat glands

o o

Our skin’s main jobs include:

• Keeping our internal organs moist, safe & free of infection

• Keeping our body temperature at a normal 98.6 degrees

• Converting sunlight into Vitamin D

• Functioning as our largest sensory organ that tells us about heat, cold, pain, pressure & touch

• Expanding as our body expands

• Protecting us from the sun’s harmful rays

Healthy skin…

• Stretches & returns to its original shape

• Fights infection & disease

• Responds to stimulation

• Absorbs anything applied to its surface

• Makes oil (sebum) for self lubrication

• Keeps growing…upwards & outwards

To keep our skin healthy, we need to:

• Eat vitamin-rich foods, especially fruits & vegetables

• Drink lots of water

• Keep it clean & moisturized

• Protect it from wounds, breaks, cuts & inflammation

PRODUCTS FOR CLEANSING

The three main products used in routine cleansing are: cleanser, toner, and moisturizer.

Cleanser not only removes dirt, oils, makeup and other products but also loosens and removes dead skin cells. Thinning the dead layer of our skin improves its appearance and function. However, in order to do its job, cleanser lowers the acid level of our skin and opens our pores.

Toner restores the natural acid level of our skin and closes our pores. Without toner, our skin takes 8 – 12 hours to restore its own acid level leaving our skin open to bacterial infection.

Moisturizer traps the moisture from the two previous steps into our pores where it is held for a longer period of time to plump and lubricate our skin.

STEPS FOR CLEANSING

1. Wash hands thoroughly…but not with cleanser

2. Wet face and neck

3. Wash face twice with a dime-sized spot of cleanser…if using a scrub, add it to the cleanser during the second cleanse

4. Rinse face thoroughly with warm (not hot) water & pat dry with a clean towel

5. Dab or spray toner all over face and neck

6. Apply moisturizer while face is till damp…add sunscreen to moisturizer for day wear

REPEAT PROCESS EVERY MORNING & EVENING

NATURAL CLEANSER

Dr. Bronner’s Magic Soap is available from any health store. Purchase the lavender variety for normal to dry skin and the tea tree type for oily or acneic skin. Mix product with equal parts of distilled water before applying to the face.

Another good and inexpensive product is CETAPHYL, which makes both a cleanser and moisturizer. These products are available from any drug store.

NATURAL TONER FOR NORMAL TO DRY SKIN

Mix 8 ounces of distilled or filtered water with 1 green tea bag and allow to sit at room temperature until water just begins to turn a light yellow. Discard tea bag. Add 1 teaspoon of rice vinegar.

Place mixture in a spray bottle and apply to face immediately after the second cleansing. A brownish cloud will form in the bottom of bottle after a couple of days. Discard toner when “cloud’ appears and make a new batch.

NATURAL TONER FOR OILY SKIN

Mix 8 ounces of distilled or filtered water with 1 tsp unsweetened cranberry juice. Place mixture in a spray bottle and apply to face immediately after the second cleansing.

NATURAL MASKS

Many of the products on the market are filled with artificially manufactured chemicals and ingredients that are actually harmful for our skin such as alcohol, fragrance and artificial dyes. Additionally, the majority of these products are over priced. Listed below are a few easily obtained items that are more effective and much less expensive than the brand names.

Please be aware that no substance you apply to your face should cause pain. If you experience any discomfort after applying the masks described below, remove them immediately with warm water. In addition, if you have a sensitivity or allergy to any of the ingredients listed do not use them on your face.

Avocado…Rich in vitamins & essential oils…best for dry, sensitive skin…mash ½ very ripe avocado…smooth on face after 2^nd cleansing & allow to remain on face for 10-20 minutes…wash off with warm water…apply toner and moisturizer.

Banana…Rich in vitamins, potassium, calcium phosphorus & minerals…best for dry, sensitive skin…mash ½ very ripe banana…smooth on face after 2^nd cleansing & allow to remain on face for 10-20 minutes…wash off with warm water…apply toner and moisturizer.

Grated raw potato…Reduces puffiness…best for oily skin…grate or thinly slice potato…squeeze out excess water…place potato pulp or slices onto face while lying down & allow to remain on face for 10 minutes…wash off with warm water…apply toner and moisturizer.

Honey…Clears blocked pores & moisturizes. Heat honey container in a bowl of hot water for a few minutes or in microwave for a few seconds. CAREFULLY TEST A DROP OR TWO ON THE INSIDE OF YOUR WRIST BEFORE APPLYING TO YOUR FACE.

If honey is thin & runny but not too hot, apply to clean face & allow to cool while on skin. It will be come thick & sticky as it cools. Carefully roll or twist honey off face with fingertips. Small blackheads will be pulled from your skin with the honey. Rinse off face with wash cloth moistened with WARM water using circular motions to help rub away dead skin cells…pat dry…apply toner and moisturizer.

Oatmeal…Softens & exfoliates dead skin…use for any type of skin. Use only unflavored variety. Make oatmeal in usual way according to package directions, and then allow to cool to room temperature. Apply 1-2 tablespoons to face after cleansing & allow to remain on face for 10-20 minutes. Rinse off with wash cloth moistened with WARM water using circular motions to help rub away dead skin cells…pat dry…apply toner than moisturizer.

Oatmeal is also a handy ingredient to add to any of the masks (except the honey mask) to make them more spreadable and to keep them from sliding off your face.

Strawberries…Rich in vitamins & antioxidants…an astringent best for oily skin…puree fresh strawberries…smooth on face & allow to remain on face for 10 minutes…wash off with warm water…apply moisturizer.

If this mask seems too strong for your skin, mix it with a little cooked oatmeal next time. Oatmeal, or yogurt, will act as a buffer by reducing the acid level in the fruit.

Yogurt…Softens & loosens dead skin cells…use on any skin type. Bring plain yogurt to room temperature…

smooth on face after 2^nd cleansing & allow to remain on face for 10-20 minutes. Rinse off with wash cloth moistened with WARM water using circular motions to help rub away dead skin cells…pat dry…apply toner then moisturizer.

COMBINATION MASKS

Egg white & oatmeal…Cleaning & drying…best for oily skin or oily areas of the face…combine cooked, cooled oatmeal with beaten egg white then proceed as above.

Oatmeal, egg yolk & banana…Extra nourishing for dry skin. Combine cooked, cooled oatmeal with mashed banana and beaten egg yolk. Proceed as above.

RECOMMENDED INGREDIENTS IN

COMMERCIAL COSMETICS:

	AHA’s	Calendula
		Chamomile
	Echinacea
	Oils:
	Apricot	Olive
	Canola	Rapeseed
	Coconut	Rosehip
	Grapeseed	Safflower
	Hemp seed oil	Sesame
	Jojoba	Shea butter
	Lecithin	Soybean
	Macadamia nut	Sweet almond
	Salicylic acid	Tea tree oil
	Seaweed extracts	Titanium Dioxide
	Soy extracts	Triclosan
	Vitamins…especially B6,	B2 & C

INGREDIENTS TO AVOID WHEN SHOPPING FOR

COSMETICS OR SKIN CARE PRODUCTS:

Alcohol	Mandarin orange
Artificial Fragrance	Menthol
Aluminum	Methyl-any ingredient
Ammonium	Mineral oil
	Myrrh
Bergamot oil	Myrtle
Carnauba wax	Neroli
Cedarwood oil
Cinnamon	Orange oil
Clover	Oregano
Clove oil
Colors or dyes	PABA
Comfrey extract	Parabens-any ingredient
Corn mint	Peppermint oil
Compfrey extract
Cornstarch	Rice starch
C & C dyes
	Saturated fats
Dandelion extract	Sodium hydroxide
	Sodium Lauren sulphate
Eucalyptus oil	Spearmint
English ivy	Sulphur
FD&C dyes	Talc
	Tallow
Hydrogen peroxide	Tangerine Oil
Isopropyl palmitate	Vitamin B2
Ivy extract
Kava kava
Lemon or lime oils
Loveage

WHY SHOULD YOU LISTEN TO ME?

Well, first I’m a California licensed esthetician. That means I graduated from a state-approved school after 600 hours of classroom and hands-on training. I also passed a 5-hour State Licensing Board exam on skin care and hair removal topics.

I was first drawn to skincare because I had the world’s worst acne as a teenager. My zits could best be described as ‘volcanos’ on my face. Fortunately, I escaped the scarring and visible damage acne can leave behind although I will never entirely forget ridicule such severe acne can generate.

Years later, I knew that much better treatments for acne must be available than the black bar of Neutragena soap that was the only thing available back in those dark ages.

Since leaving beauty school I have done facials, makeup applications, hair removal for hundreds of clients. During that time I saw over and over the hype and half-truths used to confuse both clients and professionals in the marketing of hundreds of product lines.

Finally, I love working with women to improve not only their appearance but their self-esteem. I can’t tell you how gratifying it is to see a women ‘float’ out of a salon after receiving a facial feeling stronger and ready to take on world.

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