Journey of the Soul
in the Celtic Lands
By Kate Everson
Copyright 2011 Kate Everson
Smashwords Edition
Thank you for downloading this free ebook. This book may not be reproduced. Please encourage your friends to download their own copy at smashwords.com
Introduction
Take a soul journey to some sacred sites in the United Kingdom and Ireland. Some are not the most popular tourist destinations. But if you rent a car, have a good map and a sense of adventure, you will find yourself in some of the most amazing and inspiring places. These sites have been sacred since ancient times and their vibrations are still strong. Spend time at the sites. Sit down and feel the energy. Connect.
This book will take you to: Glastonbury, Callanish, Machrie Moor on the Isle of Arran, Stonehenge, Avebury, Fortingall in Glen Lyon, Scotland, Connemara in Ireland, Tintagel in Cornwall, Exeter Cathedral, Rosslyn Chapel, The Holy Isle of Lindisfarne and Llangollen in Wales.
Glastonbury, Somerset, England
If you’re going on a soul journey in the UK you have to start with Glastonbury. This town is built on a vortex of energy, and will affect you one way or another. Despite its semblance of “madness” you can still find the underlying peace that made its presence strong for so many pilgrims.
Climb the Tor. That hill in the middle of town has magic in it. Day or night, rain or shine, there is something about that bare hill with the ruins of the 14th century St. Michaels chapel on top that give you a feeling of something. What is it? Stand there and let the wind blow as you face all directions. Is it a sacred place? Only you can answer that. What do you feel? According to legend, the Holy Grail, reputedly the chalice used by Christ at the Last Supper, was buried at the foot of the Tor by Joseph of Arimathea.
The earliest reference is a story about St. Patrick’s return from Ireland in which he became the leader of a group of hermits at Glastonbury and discovered an ancient ruined oratory on the summit after climbing through a dense woods. Scattered finds of prehistoric, Roman, and later objects suggest the Tor was always used by man, but evidence for actual occupation from the 6th century was uncovered in excavations.
All I know is I keep coming back. I have climbed the Tor many times over the years and each time I felt something different. Like a chameleon it changes as you do.
But Glastonbury is more than the Tor. The whole town is on a crossroads of energetic Ley Lines that flow beneath the earth. Everywhere you can feel that energy, including in the ancient abbey ruins with its yew trees and the burial place of the legendary King Arthur! If you walk through town you will also find the 500-year-old George and Pilgrims Inn with original stonework inside, and the home of its own brew of excellent Bitcombe beer.
I walked up Wearyall Hill to the Holy Thorn, which has now been cut down by vandals. I’m glad I was there while it was still thriving. St. Joseph of Arimathea in gospel times was said to have planted the first holy thorn tree on that hill. Pilgrims have visited it from all over the world. Locals walk there, enjoy the scenery, the peace and the holiness. When I was there a young couple was flying a kite. The clouds flew overhead in a perfect blue sky. You could feel the presence.
Who knows why someone had to cut it down? Today the Holy Thorn is aflutter with cluties, coloured cloths, adorning it like tiny Tibetan prayer flags.
Trees in Glastonbury include Gog and Magog, the old oaks at the foot of the Tor, at least a thousand years old. One of them is bare now, practically dead, but the other is still strong. I climbed up Magog and stood there, feeling the thick bark and the energy inside that ancient trunk. Each limb seemed to be raised in adoration to the sky, its roots clinging stubbornly to Mother Earth. I felt a kinship with Gog and Magog, the last of a row of huge oaks that used to line the base of the Tor. Strength, beauty, wisdom, I felt it all in them. And even Gog in its last glorious stand.
I must admit it did look a bit like a Dragon! Or an elephant with its long trunks reaching out to the sky, pointing here and there, actually taking part in the process of whatever was happening in Glastonbury, its long-time home.
I felt that both of them were like sentinels, watching over the town that nobody really knew or understood as well as they did.
How could you not love a tree? These were special, for sure.
There are other sacred sites in Glastonbury, the most popular being the Chalice Well, which brings together water from the Red and White Springs in a beautiful garden where people come to walk and feel that indescribable peace. The stone well is said to be 800 years old.
The trees in the garden are all old souls, flowing with life just like the springs. Sit there on a bench, or walk in the pool, or just put your face against a tree and listen. Soothing whispers enter you being and bring peace. The yew trees stand as sentinels. The intact stump of one 1,800 year old yew was uncovered near the well, likely part of an ancient grove. There are also three holy thorn trees in the garden, descendants of the famous tree that sprouted from the staff of Joseph of Arimathea. In the Chalice Well gardens the twin currents of the Michael and Mary ley lines, which run from Cornwall to Norfolk, weave their way around the waters, before heading off to Avebury.
A walk into town from the Tor will take you right past St. Margaret’s Chapel and Almshouse on Magdalene Street. A garden of herbs is still growing in the courtyard and the chapel itself is a prayerful place where various pictures of holy faces have been set up for meditation. Small candles are lit for these inspirational souls.
Reverence is given to the Mother, the female in all her divine aspects, goddess or saint, holy being of any kind. In a place like Glastonbury, which seems to be a hodgepodge of beliefs, including Pagan and Christianity, it’s nice to find a place that honours both.
Callanish Stone Circle, Outer Hebrides, Scotland
If you like remote stone circles, you have to go to Callanish in the Western Isles of Scotland. This stone circle is not easy to get to, but worth the trip. It is full of atmosphere, dark and powerful, and will take your breath away.
Take the ferry, the Caledonian MacBrayne, from the port of Uig on the Isle of Skye and hope for good weather. The Outer Hebrides have some of the stormiest weather in the UK and sometimes it doesn’t let up for days … or weeks! But if you’re lucky, you will get some sunny skies and it will make it all worthwhile.
Take the ferry to Tarbert on the Isle of Lewis. The ride only takes an hour and a half and there are two ferries a day (except for Sunday when there are none!).
When I got there, it was sunny, but before I left it was pouring rain. Not even a raincoat from Canada can beat Hebrides gale force storms!
Before taking the road to Callanish (Callanais in Gaelic) take a little side trip to the stone St. Clement’s Church, in Rodel, just south of Tarbert on the Isle of Harris (famous for Harris tweed.) There is a 16th century chapel overlooking the sea, which is absolutely remarkable.
The old tombs are covered with carvings and you can feel how special it must have been to the residents on this remote island before it was abandoned in 1560 after the Reformation. One tomb is dedicated to Alasdair MacLeod, the builder of the church, and it shows him clutching a skull, surrounded by various carvings including everything from saints to hunting dogs. A local resident pointed out the various tombs overlooking the sea. It seemed like a nice place to lie down for a final rest!
Driving back to the Isle of Lewis, you will find the stone circle of Callanish located inside a fence next to a small lunch and tea room. If it’s raining hard, you will be glad for this shelter! There is no admission fee to the stone circle. You just pass through a small gate and you are on your own.
Callanish is one of the most complete stone circles in Britain. There are 13 large stones of banded gneiss arranged around a central monolith 4.5 metres high overlooking a chambered tomb. About 40 smaller stones radiate from the circle in the form of a cross. This stone circle is said to date from between 3,800 to 5,000 years ago, roughly contemporary with the pyramids of Egypt.
The stones are tall and regal and as you walk around them you get a feel for their mystery. Who knows why they were erected and how? They definitely have a presence all their own. Place your hands on some of the stones and just stand there for a few minutes, absorbing their energy. If you listen with your heart, the stones can be heard.
Fortingall Yew, Glen Lyon, Scotland
The yew tree in Fortingall, Scotland is said to be the oldest in the world, dating back over 5,000 years. Situated in the valley of Glen Lyon in Perthshire, the site is as beautiful as it is ancient. The yew is surrounded by a stone fence so that visitors will not destroy any more of its branches, as was done in the past. You can still stand in front of it, or peek through the fence. It feels like your great-great grandmother and you don’t want to disturb it!
When visited by Thomas Pennant in 1769 it had already been damaged by Beltane bonfires and souvenir hunters but measured over 56 feet in circumference.
The yew stands in front of an ancient church which visitors can enter and see all the relics that are still used in services today. The stone walls are original as is the font, the 7th century monk’s bell and the stained glass windows. The chapel feels like a holy place from hundreds of years ago.
The yew is the reason the small kirk (church) was built here. Known as the “tree of eternity” a yew regenerates after 500 years and starts to grow again. People revered the longevity of the tree. At one time this tree had a girth of over 17 metres, but souvenir hunters kept plucking away at it, reducing it to two smaller trunks.
Beside the church is a small graveyard with the most magnificent Celtic Cross. The figures of saints and religious figures are lovingly carved into the stone.
The village of Fortingall is tiny, but it feels special. The Vale of Fortingall was inhabited for 5,000 years and regarded as a sacred place. A thatched cottage is just across the way from the church, and there is a hotel where you can have a cup of tea or lunch. The Fortingall Hotel dates from 1300. Across in the field are three standing stones, another remnant of ancient times.
The town is at the entrance to Glen Lyon which also has a spiritual link. It is called the Valley of the Sun God. The name Lyon was originally Lugdunum named after Lugh the Celtic Sun God. Many early Celtic missionaries from Iona set up religious communities in the glen, particularly at the town of Dull (or Tulli as it was then known.)
Mount Schiehallion in the glen is called the Fairy Hill of the Caledonians and is said to have fairies in it. Climbing up the trail to 3,500 feet with all the purple heather makes you feel like you are in fairy heaven! Schiehallion is also claimed to be the geographic centre of Scotland. It has a holy well which once had healing powers. There are also 26 caves in the mountain, described as the entrance to the underworld of the fairies.
Another mystical moment might be encountered in the Weem Woods, just behind Menzies Castle two miles from Aberfeldy. The tree trunks have been carved into creature faces, and they stare out at you as you climb the hill to St. David’s Well, named after a 15th century hermit who lived in one of the caves. The well was orginally known as Chapel Well Rock and St. Cuthbert was reputed to have built a place of worship here in the 7th century.
Across the River Tay is the Birks of Aberfeldy, a nature trail up through the forest by a waterfall. Here Robert Burns was inspired to write his poem in 1787. Take a couple of hours to enjoy this 1.5 mile beautiful hike where you can stop and breathe in that fresh Scottish air.
Rosslyn Chapel, Scotland
Just south of Edinburgh is the most amazing ancient stone church, filled with carvings of saints and demons, angels and gargoyles and huge intricate pillars reaching up to a painted, carved ceiling. This is the chapel that was featured in the book and movie, The DaVinci Code. It was founded in 1446 by Sir William St. Clair, the last St. Clair Prince of Orkney. It took 40 years to build.
Take the small group tour of the chapel, because the leader will point out things you might not notice yourself. There are so many things to see and interpret.
At the north door, two water spouts in the form of gargoyles peer down menacingly. Near the window is a soldier on horseback, near two rams locking horns. Underneath is a hunched figure with a stick pressed behind its bent knees. Across the door is a fox making off with a goose, with the farmer in pursuit. On the opposite corner is a cherub playing a musical instrument.
Inside the chapel, sit in the centre of the building and look towards the main altar, facing east. The ceiling is divided into five compartments, with rows of daisies, lilies, flowers, roses and stars. The whole ceiling is covered from end to end with these elaborately carved stone bands. You can’t imagine what this looks like until you are actually in that room, looking around up, across, and over. There is not one inch of that chapel that is not a work of art, painstakingly and lovingly created by the amazing stone masons of the day.
At the top of one pillar is an enormous lion’s head with a pair of hands forcing open its jaws. On another pillar is an angel holding the seal of the lamb of God, an emblem said to be associated with the Knights Templar. The engrailed cross held by another angel is the coat of arms of the Sinclair family, and the earls of Rosslyn. An angel also holds the heart of Robert Bruce.
Look down at the floor. Between the pillars is a stone slab with a carved image of a knight in armour. On each side of his head is a small shield with a lion, and at his feet lies a greyhound. This is believed to be the burial place of William St. Clair.
The chapel is rich in carvings of the “green man,” a pagan symbol influenced by the Celtic tradition. Over 100 have been counted in the interior of the building.
One of the finest examples is in the Lady Chapel, between the altars to the Blessed Virgin and St Andrew. If you stand directly under it, you will see the green man full face. The green man symbolized the capacity for great goodness and the parallel scope for significant evil. The St. Clair family were sympathetic to the gypsies who performed plays about the origins of this legend, associated with Robin Hood, in the 15th and 16th centuries.
The heads of the St. Clair family were Grand Master Masons of Scotland, and throughout the chapel you will see figures of angels significant in the rites of freemasonry. To the left of the altar to the Blessed Virgin is a carving of Lucifer, the fallen angel, bound and upside down.
The ornately carved Apprentice Pillar and the pillar of the Master Mason have a story all their own. The Master Mason was jealous of the work done by the apprentice and struck him on the head with his mallet, killing him.
In the corners of the chapel, you will see the faces of both masons, staring at each other across the room. The apprentice has a scar on his right temple. Between them is the grieving mother of the apprentice.
While visiting the area, walk into town and enjoy the quaint village that has become a living legend because of this very unique and dramatic chapel.
Machrie Moor Stone Circle, Isle of Arran
Most people don’t go to the Isle of Arran to see the stone circles. They go for the scenery and the beaches. But, take the short ferry ride from Ardrossan Harbour on Scotland’s west coast, south of Glasgow, to the town of Brodick on the Isle of Arran. Don’t follow the dozens of tourists to Brodick castle or south to the most populated beach areas. Instead, head inland across the winding String Road.
I found the stone circles marked with a small sign at the side of a road. A trail led through a field dotted with sheep that moved slowly out of the way. It was their space after all!
Machrie Moor is said to have been in use in the second millennium BC, abandoned after 1200 BC in a period of deteriorating climate. The first stone circle, near Moss Farm, is over 62 feet in diameter, made up of granite blocks standing three feet high. Nearby is another more complete circle of two concentric rings of stones, the inner ring of eight blocks and the outer of 15 smaller stones. You really need a map to find them all.
About 100 yards east are the dramatic massive sandstone pillars, the tallest 18 feet high. Two burials and some bronze age pottery were found at the site. Two more circles are found further along the trail. Traces of a timber circle were found there too, probably of an earlier date than the stones.
The area is largely covered by peat, but all around are bronze age landscapes including cairns, standing stones, and hut circles. Some of the stones are neolithic, dating to before 3000 BC. Comparisons have been made with the Kilmartin river valley on the mainland of Argyll not far from Machrie Moor.
I absolutely loved these out-of-the-way stones, despite taking a short cut across the bog and getting my feet soaked!
While you’re on the island take a drive around. It’s only 19 miles long and 10 miles wide, and the drive takes two and a half hours. The 14 settlements and population of 4,700 are concentrated in small coastal resorts, and the scenery is said to be “Scotland in miniature” with all its diversity. It stretches from low farmlands to rugged coastlines, including lochs and cliffs. There are the remains of ten stone circles, of which seven are near Machrie.
The Isle of Arran was once visited by the Vikings, raiding the nearby Holy Isle at Iona in 795 AD. The Vikings may have named some of the sites on Arran such as Geita-fjall (goat mountain) and some of the bays such as Sannaig (sand bay) now Sannox, and Briedavik (broad bay) now Brodick.
Lindisfarne, the Holy Isle
On the north-east coast of England, right near the border to Scotland is the Holy Isle of Lindisfarne. It is separated from the mainland by a causeway which is accessible by car only at low tide.
I took a trip to this Holy Isle, making sure the tide was out (there were warnings and times of tides written on a sign near the entrance to the road.)
Go there early, before the hordes of tourists, because it is one of those popular destinations now. I got there in the morning, before the museum was even open, but had a chance to stand alone in St. Mary’s ancient chapel. It is on the site of the original monastery founded by St. Aidan and parts date back to the 7th century. You just have to be there when no one else is around. This goes for most places in a sacred sites tour. Stay away from tourists!
The feeling in that church is audible. Stand inside and don’t move. You can almost hear the sound of chanting.
Lindisfarne was founded by St. Aidan in 635 A.D. who came from Iona to form a monastery. This island was raided by the Vikings and now there is not much left to see but ruins. You can take a boat around the island, but then you will just be another tourist!
Before you leave Lindisfarne, stop in at the corner store and pick up a bottle of honey mead made by the monks still on the island. It tastes like nectar of the gods! You can even take a tour of the winery where they make the mead from fermented grapes, honey and herbs with natural water from the island’s artesian well.
Inside Stonehenge
You can’t go to England without visiting Stonehenge at least once. But you won’t really get a feel for it unless you’re standing inside, right up against those ancient symbols of forgotten gods. They are amazing! In order to get inside Stonehenge you need to sign up with a group months ahead of time. And there are strict rules. Don’t touch the stones! Don’t eat around the stones. Don’t do anything to hurt the stones!
The name Stonehenge could be Saxon for Hanging Stones, as they seemed to float above the ground in a magical way. Other medieval interpretations refer to the the stone circle as “the Giant’s Dance” designed to honour the dead.
The first person to make a serious study of Stonehenge was Inigo Jones (1573-1652) but it was William Stuckeley who in the 18th century declared it to be “a temple of the British Druids.” Only in the 20th century were archaeologists able to pin a date on the monument’s real age at much, much earlier, dating back to 3500 BC when the first work of three phases was done with the digging of a ditch and circular bank. The second stage involved transporting bluestones from Wales and then came the mammoth sarsens, some weighing up to 45 tons, placed together by an army of skilled workmen (or aliens?).
I loved being inside Stonehenge and didn’t care what theory people had about why it was there. You just get a feel for the sacredness of place and it resonates on a deep soul level.
I longed to touch the stones, fling myself on the sacrificial stone, or climb those huge arches and perch there like a raven. But I behaved myself and walked meekly out, buying a souvenir at the shop instead.
Avebury and West Kennet Long Barrow
After a trip to Stonehenge, it’s really nice to be able to just go and touch some stones. You can do that at Avebury, seven miles northeast of Devizes in Wiltshire. It is the largest stone circle in the world, over 28 acres with 98 Sarsen slabs in two circles and avenues. It is about 4,500 years old, 500 years older than Stonehenge and 14 times the size. It has four gateways. A line of stones standing in pairs extends from the southern gateway. The tall stones are said to be masculine and the short ones are feminine. There is also a huge ditch surrounding the complex.
Touch them, sit on them, lie on them; these stones don’t seem to mind one bit. And neither does anyone else. You can wander through the stones in the middle of the night, if you like (many people do). The fences don’t keep you out. There is a small gate with a latch across from the Red Lion pub. You open it and step into an other world.
Getting the feel of the stones is like connecting to the ancient spirits that brought them there. Who made them and why? All I know, is they feel like real people and look a bit like them too. Stand with a stone.They really seem alive.
Some of the individual stones are massive, like the 60 ton Swindon Stone. At the stroke of midnight it is said to rotate on its axis! One of the largest stones is called the Devil’s Chair and I dare you to sit there. Local legends attribute mystical powers to the stone such as the ability to summon the devil. Also, check out the face on the Avebury Sphinx, directly across from the Red Lion. The Sphinx faces east like the one in Egypt. It has even more uncanny alignments, such as its latitude of 51.51 degrees compared to the slope of the Great Pyramid of 51.51 degrees.
Avebury isn’t just about stones. It’s also about the huge Silbury Hill said to be the largest prehistoric man-made hill in Europe, rising over 40 metres high with a diameter of 165 metres, containing a million tons of material. It took over 150 years to build and nobody really knows why it is there. It dates back to about 2800 BC. One theory is it was built as a tomb for King Sil. No bones have every been found. You can’t climb the hill as it is now protected as a Site of Special Scientific Interest.
Across from the hill is West Kennet Long Barrow passage tomb. This ancient burial chamber was constructed by people from the neolithic settlement of Windmill Hill. The barrow contains five sarsen stone chambers. Excavations discovered over 40 bodies buried between 2000 and 1000 BC. Step inside the tomb and feel the echoes of those long buried there. I did that early on the Celtic holiday of Samhain, November 1, and felt the presence of ancient souls. Another time I found myself inside the tomb at midnight, with just candles to light the passageways. A sacred sound echoed through the stones. When I came out, the stars were falling from the sky.
Near Avebury is a long, low hill they call Windmill Hill. Excavations of the area date the first traces about 4,500 BC. The construction of Avebury began in 2,300 BC and became one of Britain’s largest, ancient ritual site. You wouldn’t think much about Windmill Hill itself unless you actually went up there. I walked to the highest point and lay down in the waving grass as the sun began to set. I could have stayed there for a long time. As I was walking back down, I spotted two hares running across a field. They stopped and looked at me, for a magical moment, then vanished over the hill.
There’s something about Avebury that makes you keep coming back ... something you had almost forgotten.
Exploring Wales
There is magic in Wales, whether it’s North Wales and the Isle of Anglesey, last stronghold of the Druids in 60 A.D., or South Wales with its sunny beaches and ancient Celtic churches.
Wales is the reputed home of the legendary King Arthur, although others have also claimed him. There are legends abounding everywhere, and even a hint of fairy dust. If you climb the hilltop castle of the ruins of Dinas Bran in the town of Llangollen, you will get a marvellous view and be in the alleged hiding place of the Holy Grail.
I loved climbing Dinas Bran, high above the Dee valley, and playing on the ruins with children who were climbing everywhere. Or maybe they were just fairy folk! They held their arms in the air to catch the wind on this ancient fortress that once was held by the princes of Powys. Dinas Bran is translated as the Hill of the Crow or Bran’s Stronghold, dating from the 12th century. It could also have been occupied in the 8th century by a man named Eliseg whose ancient pillar stands just north of Valle Crucis Abbey in the valley below. Legends associate Castell Dinas Bran with the king of Britain in the Mabinogion whose story dates to Arthurian times and whose name Bran means Raven. Castell Dinas Bran has also been called “the castle of wonders” spoken of in Arthurian romances.
If you want to find more ancient sites, there is the burial mound of Bryn Celli Ddu in Anglesey. Walk inside and feel the old souls reaching out to you! The Mound of the Dark Chamber is 4,000 years old made by Neolithic inhabitants. Charred bones, arrowheads and spiral-carved stones found here are now at the museum in Cardiff.
Drive down the Pembrokeshire coastland and be overwhelmed by the rugged, rocky landscape overlooking the sea. Make it all the way to St. David’s, the patron saint of Wales, and be sure to tour the historic cathedral (1176) with all its history. One of my favourites was the stone effigy of Lord Rhys, a power Welsh ruler from 1197.
Next to the cathedral is the tiny 7th century chapel of St. Non, the mother of St. David, the earliest church building in Wales. There is also a holy well, once used for healing. There is little known about St. Non but legend has it she gave birth to David on this spot in 510 AD.
Standing inside this holy chapel I felt a link to all the pilgirms who have prayed here for centuries. The feeling is strong especially at the altar, beneath the stained glass windows of early saints, including one of St. Winifred with a sword in her hand and a sheaf of wheat in the other. St. Winifred, Pray for us.
There are Celtic chapels and churches all over Wales, many with the original stonework and often with sacred yew trees in the graveyards. The Celtic saint felt at home in Wales and many places are named after them. Celtic crosses mark their place.
One of my favourite churches is the tiny 17th century chapel in Rug near Llangollen. It feels like saints walking inside, and everywhere you are surrounded by carved wooden painted angels on the walls and ceiling. If you are very quiet, you can hear them singing!
There are also more castles in Wales than anywhere in Europe, and while they may not be considered sacred places, they are certainly worth a visit! I loved them all, from the mighty Conwy and Caernarfon to beautiful Beaumaris, Harlech and Pembroke. Another link to an ancient past. Mostly built by King Edward I to fight the Welsh in their own land in the 1200s through the 1400s, these castles are just ruins now, but marvellous to behold. You can walk all over them, on the turrets, up the stone stairs, and through tunnels and archways to get a great feel for that era. The locations are also spectacular, on high cliffs overlooking scenic hills and valleys by the sea.
From Pembroke in south Wales it is easy to catch a ferry to Ireland, which I did one year when there was a strike in England (September of 2000) and you couldn’t buy petrol. I took the Irish ferry to Rosslare and visited the Irish National Heritage Park, and the wonderful ruins of St. Kevin’s 6th century Monastery at Glendalough, including a round tower 110 feet high. After filling up my gas tank in Ireland I took the Stena Line ferry from Dun Loughaire harbour near Dublin back to Holyhead in North Wales. A wonderful diversion! Coming off the boat in Anglesey, I stopped in to visit the stone ruins of an old chapel and a ring fort called Capel Lligwy. Then it was on with the castle tour, including beautiful round-towered Beaumaris on the water. I also found St. Winefride’s Well at Holywell, a place of pilgrimage since the 7th century.
Connemara in Ireland
After my unexpected side trip to Ireland, I had to go back. This time it was the summer of 2003 and I took a week to visit Connamara on the west coast. I drove up from Shannon airport and stayed in a guesthouse in Clifden. Driving through the countryside in Ireland is beautiful and breathtaking, but also scary on those narrow, winding roads.
One day I caught a ferry to the tiny island of Inishbofin where I wandered along the beach and rented a bicycle. The next day I drove to Kylemore Abbey, a retreat for the Benedictine nuns after World War I and enjoyed the peacefulness of the neo-gothic church and walled gardens. Other days I drove to Leenane and up the narrow Sky Road for glorious countryside scenery. At night, I came back to Clifden and joined in the singing at the local pub. That was fun! I might even take up the Bodhran.
I drove to Dan O’Hara’s homestead near Clifden, where a family lived and farmed in the 1840s. It was set up the way it had been then, complete with donkeys, chickens and cows, and a peat fire burning in the kitchen. Upstairs I tried out the bed which had a harp embroidered on the pillowcase. A rooster crowed at me so I got up!
My favourite memory is driving along the Old Bog Road, which cuts north of Roundstone Bog from Toombeola to Ballinaboy. I had read about its magical qualities and wanted to see if it was true. I stopped to talk to a bearded goat wandering along the rocks beside the road. Then I couldn’t get my car started. Finally, after a few quick prayers of surrender to Ireland, it started. Those fairy people are good at playing tricks!
Along the Bog Road is one of those little out-of-the-way churches that most people drive right by. The graveyard had Celtic crosses dating back a couple of hundred years. I tried the door and it opened! Inside a Celtic design on the stained glass windows and the solid Connemara marble altar dedicated to St. Brigid were so unique. Beside the church an arched stone bridge had a tiny waterfall where sheep gently grazed. It was right out of a fairy tale!
My last bit of Ireland was unexpected. Planning to take a flight home the next day, it turned out there had been a blackout all along the east coast of North America and no flights were flying. I put my suitcases at the Shannon airport storage and spent the day at the nearby Bunratty castle and Folk Park. It was marvellous! The fully restored castle was built in 1425 and had rooms of magnificent furnishings along with a dark dungeon, four stone towers and a drawbridge. Wandering through the Folk Park was a trip all by itself, with recreated farmhouse, school, blacksmith, mills, barns, shops and gardens. What a wonderful way to end my trip to Ireland!
Curious in Cornwall
Cornwall in the southwest of England is a maze in itself. It is an ancient cornucopia, with standing stones, quoits, circles and Celtic chapels everywhere. The only down side to Cornwall is that it gets very busy in the summer with all the city folk flocking to the sandy beaches. But you can’t blame them. It’s so balmy in the south, there are even palm trees growing!
You can drive all the way to Tintagel on the west coast and take a look at the reputed birthplace of King Arthur, although if he did exist, it was certainly earlier than this ruined castle by the sea. The view makes it worthwhile, with gigantic cliffs and pounding ocean waves. The town of Tintagel is a tourist’s delight, with everything Arthur from T-shirts to teaspoons. It also has an amazing Arthurian Centre with coats of arms and the round table of knights.
But if you want something a little more authentic, try to find some of the standing stones in the fields. It takes a bit of searching and some good guide maps, but Lanyon Quoit, Trethevy Quoit and Men an Tol are worth finding.
At the circle stone of Men an Tol you can crawl through and get your rickets healed. I went through once and to this day I do not have rickets! The name Men an Tol means “holed stone” and is also called the Crick Stone (to heal that crick in your back) or the Devil’s Eye.
Along the way through Cornwall stop in at a waterfall at St. Nectan’s Glen near Trethevy. A long hike up a magical but muddy slope will find you at a beautiful water cascade along the stream, where you can put pennies in the tree and make a wish.
St. Nectan was a Celtic saint around 500 A.D. and had his sanctuary there. Across the road you will also find labyrinth markings on the cliffs leading to the sea.
There are many beautiful sites to visit in Cornwall, including the Merry Maidens stone circle, all alone in a field of waving grass. Everything is so close to the ocean, it’s an amazing journey just driving to the edge and looking over!
While in the south of England, drive through Dorset, Dartmoor and Devon for their beautiful countryside. The roads are winding in many places, as usual, but the finds at the other end are marvellous!
Exeter Cathedral
Some of the most magnificent cathedrals are found in the UK. My favourites were Wells, Winchester and Exeter. I went crazy taking pictures of all the amazing statues on the walls, inside and out, tombs of bishops, effigies of saints, stone knights with their swords by their side. I was in medieval heaven!
Exeter Cathedral was built from 1114 to 1369 and contains everything you could ask for in an ancient church, including Green Men, grinning gargoyles, creatures and cherubs.
This green man is unusual because there are two of them, joined in the centre on the ceiling overlooking one of the many chapels in the church. But if you wander throughout the building, you will spot more fascinating creatures which do not even have a name. It makes you wonder what they were about!
My favourites in these old churches are the knights from the era of the Crusades. They often have a lion at their feet and some animal at their head for a cushion. In Exeter this one was entombed beside his wife, forever in stone, with an angel by his head and a lion at his feet. He was the second Earl of Devon, 1376.
Spirit of Place
On all my journeys to sacred sites, I have tried to get in touch with the spirit of place. Sometimes you can feel it, other times you can’t. Sometimes, it’s so strong it almost screams at you. There are amazing sites that can thrill you to the bone. They come alive when you stop, listen and connect.
Many churches, holy wells, stones, temples and ancient places around the world have been listed as sacred sites. But what does that mean?
Sacred has to come from the inner spirit, the soul. Anything that resonates with that deep part of you will feel sacred. You don’t have to travel all over the world. Feel the peace wherever you are.
About the author: Kate Everson lives in Canada but loves the Celtic lands! For the past 10 years she has been travelling to various spots in Ireland, Wales, Scotland, and England following the trail of the Celts from Europe. Along the way, she has connected with the spirit of the land and felt right at home!
* * *