The Leopards
of Londolozi
Smashwords Edition
by Brian Lawrenson
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Author: Brian Lawrenson. © 2011 Brian Lawrenson.
The photos in this edition are the copyright material of Brian Lawrenson and bigstockphoto.com. They may not be copied, sold or reproduced.
Smashwords Photo Edition ISBN: 978-1-921814-49-5
Published: January 2011 Revised October 2011
Smashwords Edition, License Notes
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The Leopards of Londolozi
The occasion was an important wedding anniversary, and we decided that we wanted to do something special. The date coincided with the date of a school reunion in Port Elizabeth, South Africa. I was brought up in South Africa and spent my school days at one of its most respected schools, the Grey School. My wife, Jill, and I have travelled together for many years, and it was over 20 years since we’d last visited South Africa. It was time for a return visit. After reading a number of reviews, we decided that an African safari experience would meet our needs. But there are hundreds of safaris on offer, and deciding which one proved difficult. After reading a Trip Advisor Review that said, “Londolozi is truly one of the most special places on earth”, we were sold. With careful planning we could fit both the safari and the school reunion into our busy work schedules.
After reviewing details of the two camps at Londolozi Game Reserve (now there are five), we settled on spending three days at the Main Camp. Londolozi is located in a 14,000-hectare (34,580 acres) exclusive game park, situated within the Sabi Sand Private Game Reserve, on the south western border of the famous Kruger National Park. Nearby is the Ulusaba Safari Lodge, owned by Richard Branson. The Sabi Sands area has one of the highest concentrations of game in South Africa, especially the big-5 (lions, rhinoceros, elephant, buffalo and leopards). In addition, the reserve is known for the best leopard viewing in Africa. It is located 300 miles (500 km) north east of Johannesburg.
The leopard is an animal that most tourists long to see. It exudes an aura of charisma and an element of mystery, as it is there one moment, and then silently melts away into the African bush. They are very difficult to view and photograph. Except at Londolozi.
We flew to Johannesburg, the largest city in South Africa, and the location of the main International Airport. After we’d cleared customs, we made our way to the Domestic Terminal, where we boarded a 40 seat Fokker Friendship F27 for our 30-minute flight to Skukusa. Skukusa is the main access point, by air, for the Kruger National Park and the private game reserves along its south western border. Soon the suburbia that surrounds Johannesburg disappeared, to be replaced by the flat semi-arid landscape of the South African veld. This is the term that South Africans use for their flat plateau, which is covered with low-level bushes and occasional trees.
At Skukusa we were met by a staff member from the Londolozi Game Reserve, and transferred to a smaller Cessna Grand Caravan for the six-minute flight to the Londolozi airstrip. We knew that we were arriving somewhere remote when the pilot first buzzed the airstrip to make certain that it was free of animals. After we’d safely landed, a family of warthogs scampered across the runway with their tails in the air, looking back as if to announce that they were the reception committee, running late.
Here we were welcomed by ranger Andrew, and were introduced to the specially built Land Rover safari vehicle. This was to be our transport for the game viewing for the next three days. It was a standard long wheelbase Land Rover, with three rows of bench seats behind the driver/passenger seats. It had open sides and no canopy, giving excellent 360 degree visibility. The front windscreen was lowered, and a heavy tubular metal frame, designed to be a buffer against any animal, surrounded the vehicle. On safari, an animal spotter could sit on a special seat on the left hand front fender, looking out for the game. He used hand signals to indicate to the driver, the direction of what he’d seen. This system worked very well.
We arrived at the Main (Varty) Camp at about 12.30 PM, just in time for a wash-up, then lunch on the veranda. Our accommodation was a circular cottage, which in South Africa they call a rondavel. It was spacious and had its own private facilities. The centrepiece was a large double bed with a bedcover of African motifs. The interior was very African in decor. Walking back along the wooden walkway to the lounge area, we had our first views of the spectacular bushland setting. Down below us, the Sand River wove its way between the islands of green vegetation.
Our waiter introduced himself, “My name is Lettuce”.
Now, we knew we were in for an experience with a difference. As we waited under the cathedral of trees for our meal to arrive, a combination of hot food and a delicious selection of salads, we had time to look around. The camp was small, only ten chalets with thatched roofs, a great vaulted guest lounge that was open on two sides, decorated with a number of African artefacts, and the huge deck with even more impressive views looking out over the Sand River.
Lunch at Londolozi
This camp has been upgraded since our visit, and now has a gym, large swimming pool, a massage centre and a gift shop. At the time of our stay, there were only two camps, the original Varty Camp and the Tree Camp. Now three further camps have been added: the Pioneer Camp, the Founders Camp and the Private Granite Suites. Each of these is small and designed to give the clientele an intimate personal experience.
After lunch, Andrew asked us if we would join him in about an hour, to be given a briefing on Londolozi and details of the program of game viewing.
Relaxing after lunch, I browsed through some of the coffee table books in the lounge. The history of Londolozi is legendary. In 1926, Charles Varty and his friend, Frank Unger, bought a 10,000 acre farm called Spata for 1,200 pounds, sight unseen. The current currency of South Africa is the rand. Before this it was the South African pound. The farm, largely untamed bushveld, turned out to be rich in wildlife, with antelopes, eland, waterbuck, wildebeest and lions the dominant species. Later, leopards were discovered and, still later, elephants and giraffe were introduced.
Varty and Unger, both lovers of nature, set off to explore their new acquisition at the first opportunity and, carrying two rifles, in the company of Shangaan trackers, they ended up standing at the spot where the first camp was set up. Looking out over the Sand River with its cool, clear water running over the rocks, they experienced the magic of this location for the first time.
Up until the 1960’s, the estate was the private domain of the Varty’s. A tented bush camp with a thorn bush boma (fence) to keep the lions out, was the only facility for years. They reported that very often they would fall asleep at night to the sounds of lions roaring in the nearby undergrowth.
After his father’s untimely death, John Varty then 18, and his 15-year-old brother, David, inherited the farm. Things in Africa were changing. Wildlife was being depleted from hunting, and the conservation movement was gathering momentum. Nearby, Mala Mala was the first family-owned reserve to open to paying guests. The Vartys had a model to follow, and they busied themselves building roads, round and square chalets with thatched roofs, proper bathrooms (including flush toilets), and central guest facilities with a kitchen. Soon the first paying guests arrived, and departed having had a truly unique wildlife viewing experience. The word spread.
During the 1970’s, the Vartys set about transforming Londolozi into a big game sanctuary. A swimming pool and an airstrip were constructed. They also recognised the importance of the local Shangaan people who lived in the area. They understood the importance of a three-way balance between the land, the animals and the local people. All would be needed for success and long-term sustainability. So they started to develop what is now known as the Londolozi Model. This required that a share of all the profits go to improve the lives of the Shangaan people. It was also necessary to prove the economic viability of the project. The model of land owner/conservationist, animals and Africans has now become adopted as the standard in South Africa. By the mid 1980’s, the camp was well established, and starting to get recognition as an eco-resort and luxury safari facility. Also recognised was the fine dining offered at the resort.
It was about this time that the legend of the leopards of Londolozi started. The local Shangaan tribesmen, who were hunter-gathers, were able to track the animals and, under the Vartys’ instruction, started to catalogue them. A system of identifying the cats was established based upon the pattern of marks on their faces. This method is still in use today.
The leopards were part of the catalogue but difficult to track, as the area had ample ground cover, dense riverside forests, shady gullies, and marula trees that provided the leopards with a place to hide their kills out of the reach of lions and hyenas. The leopards were seldom seen, and when they were, it was just as a blur in the tall grass, shrubs or treetops.
But this changed in 1979, when the rangers found a mother leopard with two small cubs. With infinite patience, the rangers established a relationship with the leopard. She was incredibly shy and protective of her cubs. But day after day the contact continued and, gradually, the rangers earned her trust. She became familiar with the Land Rover profile. The rangers always stayed inside the vehicle. Within another six months, the mother and now growing leopard cubs would frolic in the grasses around the Land Rover.
“The Mother”, as she became known, produced nine litters before she died in 1991. One of her offspring, called Tuwaan, born in 1984, was to be mother to a whole new lineage of cubs. Each of these was carefully identified and catalogued by the trackers and rangers, recording the marks on their faces. The lineage now extends over six generations. So in this way the leopard’s families and the Varty’s family became linked. Charles Varty’s grandsons, John and David, became a wildlife film-maker of some repute, and a conservationist, respectively. David became the chairman of the Conservation Corporation, which spearheaded the development of conservation practice in South Africa. And so, over time, their lives were inextricably linked with the leopards of Londolozi. The name of the farm was changed to “Londolozi” which is derived from the Zulu word for ‘to protect’.
As the word spread during the 90’s, the first of a soon to be regular stream of celebrities, wealthy and influential people started to visit Londolozi. As South Africa changed and moved into a new millennium, fresh challenges arose and, in many ways, Londolozi played a role in the establishment of the model of conservation and the growth of eco-tourism. A prominent visitor to Londolozi was Nelson Mandela, who is quoted as having said, “During my long walk to freedom, I had the rare privilege to visit Londolozi. There I saw people of all races living in harmony amidst the beauty that Mother Nature offers, Londolozi represents a model of the dream I cherish for the future of nature preservation in our country”.
In 1994, all the remaining fences on the eastern boundary of Londolozi were removed. This was seen as a powerful metaphor for the political changes that were taking place in South Africa.
On safari
Mid-afternoon, we gathered with two other couples in the lounge for our briefing. The program for the rest of the day was explained, together with the house rules. We were told not to worry if we heard monkeys scampering over the thatch, or along the veranda at night. The elephants came up to the boundaries of the camp, and we were not to be alarmed if we heard them trumpeting in early morning. Outside, we were introduced to our vehicle. The number one rule was to stay inside the vehicle, and not to stand up. The animals had learned to recognise a human outline, but did not recognise the Land Rovers as being a source of food. And they were keen to keep it that way. So were we.
There were three Land Rovers to go out, each taking a different route. Jill and I had one to ourselves, with Andrew as the guide. Not long after we passed beyond the camp perimeter, we came to the Hippo Pools, and were amazed at the size of these huge creatures. One male was sitting in the centre of a round pool, opening its mouth to the fullest in some sort of display to the other hippos. The mouth, fully opened with teeth visible, was an awesome sight. The message that we got was “keep clear”. Andrew told us that the hippos kill more people in Africa that any other animal. Slow moving on land, hippos are formidable adversaries when in the water.
Cresting a small brow, our tracker indicated animals to our right. Andrew pulled off the gravel (unsealed) road and eased the Land Rover to the site of a few trees. Beside them, in the shade, was a pride of lions that had recently made a kill. The lion society is very formalised, with a sequence of eating controlled by the dominant female. No jumping the queue here. Eating is always a pretty bloodied business with lions, and the young zebra they feasted on was disappearing fast. Overhead, in a taller tree, three vultures sat, watching for their opportunity. The tracker pointed out an eagle circling overhead. In Africa, there is always someone waiting for a meal.
We watched the feast for 15 minutes, and the ranger explained that the lionesses that had eaten lay panting in the long grass. The panting helped their digestion, we learned. Eventually the dominant female wandered over to the others and with a series of low grunts, she called the others to follow her as she wandered off into the bush. As we left the scene, we spotted a large male lion lying in the grass 50 meters away, probably awaiting his turn to feast on the remains of the zebra without the chaotic presence of the pride of lionesses and their youngsters.
As we made our way through the bush, the tracker pointed to a number of animals that had broken cover. So many of them blended so perfectly into the brown/green surroundings, that it took an expert eye to spot them. We saw heaps of deer; duikers, impala, steenbok, and lots of warthogs. At one spot we came across a family of hyenas playing in the sun.
We had just about completed our “sundowner” stop, when we received a call on the radio that a leopard had been spotted in a tree by one of the trackers in another Land Rover. The “sundowner” is an African tradition to celebrate the setting of the sun. Here, it was when we got to have a break, get out of the vehicle and stretch our legs, and when we were served a drink of our choice that came out of a wicker basket stored under the rear seat.
“Would you like ice?” Andrew asked Jill as he served up her gin and tonic.
An ice canister filled with ice appeared. In fading light we motored over to where we found an 8-month -old male leopard lazing about in the fork of a large tree. We moved in to within 60 feet (20 meters), and sat gazing up at the leopard. He just gazed down at us with his torch-like eyes. There seemed a sense of communication, but was this perhaps in our imagination? This was a unique moment, sitting in the African bush gazing into the eyes of an almost fully-grown leopard. Andrew told us a number of stories about the leopards and their involvement with them at Londolozi, including one who had left the park in the early 70’s and returned in 1979. It was now almost dark, and time to head back to the camp. Hopefully, we’d see more leopards tomorrow.
We had an hour to shower and dress for our dinner in the boma. This outdoor eating area is located on the site of the original camp, providing a link back to past Varty generations. The boma was no longer made of thorn bushes, but surrounded by a high brick/stone wall. At the centre there was a large log fire burning brightly. The other lighting was provided by a series of paraffin lamps strategically placed around the boma. This added to the atmosphere. Three tables were set up in a U-shape around the fire. On the fourth side was a series of tables with a beautifully presented smorgasbord of dishes, both hot and cold. But first it was time for a drink.
We sat at a table with two couples from Brisbane, Australia. They were old hands, as this was their second day. We chatted about what they had done and seen, and afterwards got onto other travel topics. They had been to many of the countries that we’d visited, so we had a lot in common. The Coles and the Hammonds also shared our sense of humour and fun.
The highlight of the meal was the impala kebabs. These are a Londolozi speciality, and proved to be very popular. The rangers occasionally have a need to cull the herds of impala, and this provides a source of fresh meat for the table. Together with the fresh salads, roasts, hot babotie and baked potatoes, freshly baked bread and a wonderful selection of desserts, it was indeed a five star meal. We also managed to drink more than the average consumption of the first class South African wines.
After dinner, we were entertained by a group of locals, Shangaans from the village who were dressed in traditional African attire. The Shangaans are a tribal group who live in the eastern side of South Africa, Zimbabwe and Mozambique. Ethnically they are linked to the Zulus, and this is reflected in their traditional costumes. Some of the men wore animal skin headgear and loincloths, with long-haired arm and foot bands made from animal hair. The women wore more modern clothing, but performed their dances in a traditional way. They sang and danced to the accompaniment of a small drumming group. The performance of a group of youngsters stole the show, demonstrating something special about the Africans’ affinity with music. They sang a number of songs in their native language, Xitsonga, as we clapped along. It was a great performance, and it was after 11.00 pm before we made our way back to our chalet.
Next morning we were called at 5.30 AM. Could we please assemble on the veranda at 6.00 AM? We were warmly dressed as, outside, the temperature was just above freezing. The coffee was hot, strong and sweet. It had been decided that we’d travel with our Brisbane friends, and our new ranger was Vicky. On the dashboard of her Land Rover was a loaded rifle resting in two brackets. Fortunately, it was not needed, but it did become the butt of a number of our jokes. Once the open vehicle got going, we realised just how cold it was, and we managed to wrap ourselves in two of the blankets that Vicky had provided.
Giraffes
The sun was just breaking the now pink-tinted horizon when we came to our first sighting. It was a herd of giraffe just starting their breakfast. We pulled off the road just as a mother and a baby giraffe came into view. They were too busy eating to be concerned about us. They were eating the upper leaves of an acacia tree, which has large thorns. Vicky told us that giraffes have a particularly tough mouth that enables them to chew the bushes, thorns and all. This was followed by a particularly hilarious conversation about how to tell the difference between a male and female giraffe. Vicky was up with the subject, and was able to tell us that looking in the normal place didn’t always give you the right answer, but you can tell the difference by the shape and colour of their horns. The female horns are often fluffy, while the male ones are normally bald. More quips and laughter. Warming to the subject, Vicky asked us if we knew that male giraffes can be homosexual was well.
“Oh, and do you know that a giraffe only sleeps for two hours a night! They sleep standing up!” exclaimed Vicky. There was a lot of discussion about what they did for the rest of the night not to mention the male giraffes homosexual tendencies. We all might have had different opinions but the conversation, at times, was hilarious. We all laughed a lot. Vicky ended up saying, “You Australians, you’re impossible. If I split my pants, I’m going to send you the bill.”
Strange, the things we learned on the African veld. Afterwards we viewed a couple of herds of zebras, which prompted the question as to whether they are white with black stripes. Vicky was able to tell us that, contrary to popular belief, zebras’ stripes are not actually black. Because some zebras have white underbellies, they appear to be white, but embryological studies have proven that they are, in fact, black with white stripes. Zebras use the stripes to recognise each other and as a form of camouflage. Their main predator, the lion, is color blind in any case, Vicky informed us. Like horses and giraffes, zebras sleep standing up.
After we’d seen quite a collection of antelopes of various sizes and colors, we came across a pride of lions, this time resting in a clump of thick grass. They had quite a few infants with them, and for us, it was delightful just watching them play, 15-25 feet (5-8 meters) away. The long grass provided the perfect element for playing games. Only occasionally did they glance our way.
Zebra
It was time to return to the camp for breakfast. As we ate a selection of muesli, toast and jam, together with two boiled eggs, we contemplated our sightings of the day. As we finished our coffee, a small herd of elephant came down to the water pools in the river, just a kilometre from the camp. If we were interested, there would be a bush walk at 11.15 AM.
Late morning we set off with a tracker named Elmon, carrying a stout stick, to view the hippos. The riverbed was quite shallow, and the pools seemed quite full of snorting and spouting hippos. Elmon explained the family life of hippos, and why they need to stay in the water, as they are ungainly on land and can suffer from sunburn if out of the water for too long. We learned that “pods” is the collective name for hippos, and that they eat at night, mainly on grasses. Seen out of water, they are huge, with an adult male weighing 2,900 - 3,300 lbs (1,300 - 1,500 kg). They live to an age of 40-50, but in drought conditions sometimes less. Their strangely shaped head with stubby ears, bulging eyes, and large nostrils on the top of the head make it possible for them to submerge their whole body in the water, leaving only a few inches visible. But the information that really surprised us was that they can’t swim. They actually walk along the bottom, and can stay submerged for 3-5 minutes.
As we walked back to the Camp, Elmon called to us to stop, and he went ahead to check for wildlife. We were near a well-known crocodile haunt, and he didn’t want us to meet any face-to-face. So we had to settle for more long-shot photos of the crocodiles sun bathing on the distant river bank.
But the information that brought back the humour was that, despite their stocky shape and short legs, a hippopotamus can outrun a human.
Wayne quipped, “John, it’s OK, I don’t have to outrun the hippopotamus, I just have to out run you!”
We all laughed. On the way back to the camp we disturbed a group of warthogs fossicking for roots. The large boars, with their long pair of tusks, can be a danger to humans, especially if cornered. Our tracker told us that the warthog’s name came from the four protrusions that are found on their heads. But the feature that I just love about the warthog is the way that they hold their tails erect as they make their way along a track. It seems like a navigation beacon for those that follow behind.
The day that we’d arrived, we were so excited that we didn’t give lunch the attention that it deserved. This, our second lunchtime, was a more leisurely affair, and gave us time to explore and taste the smorgasbord of dishes. Deciding was a real chore, so I elected to try a small portion of everything. The cold duck and spinach pie was delicious. As we sat on the comfortable veranda surrounded by the African bush, with service second to none, we could appreciate why Londolozi has built up a reputation for its outstanding dining experience.
After lunch we were asked whether we’d like to take a visit to the Shangaan village. Yes, we would. The Assistant General Manager, Ronnie, took us along a well-worn path to the African village, nearby. Here, Ronnie explained how the families lived, worked and prospered. We were given an explanation about the life of the 240 people who lived in the village; of these, about 120 worked in the camp in various jobs, from cooks and cleaners, to rangers. With the assistance of the Vartys, they have established a school, a co-operative, a community and craft centre, and a medical clinic. There were quite a few new houses under construction.
A central committee manges the village, and the locals have been encouraged to develop local industries and endeavours. Much of the traditional ways of the Shangaans have been retained, but with the help of modern facilities, the population of the village has grown and prospered.
Late that afternoon, the six of us went out on safari, this time with Jacqui as our driver. We were keen to see elephants, as none of us had seen them up close. We tracked back and forth across the park without seeing anything until our tracker signalled that a large animal was off to our right. It turned out to be a large bull elephant. But it seemed quite strange, as if it had five legs. Jacqui explained that the male might be picking up the sounds of a distant calling female, and was becoming excited by the possibility of mating. Suddenly, after seeming lost in his own thoughts, the bull elephant started to move - in our direction. Seeing us in his path, he flapped his ears, causing our blood pressure to rise. We realised a beast weighing 12,000 lbs (5,000 kilos) was about to challenge us. Our Land Rover seemed very small and insignificant by comparison. Jacqui slipped the gear into reverse, as it was time for us to depart the scene. Slowly, our collective blood pressure and heart rate returned to normal.
We came across a herd of impala grazing in the short grass. Jacqui said that they looked very alert, which could mean that predators may be around. After one had snorted in alarm, the herd turned and ran. As we looked more closely at where they had stood, we could just make out the profile of two lionesses crouching in the shadow of some thorn thicket. It pays to stay alert in the South African bush.
After our “sundowner” stop, we ventured further afield until we came across a pride of lions walking down the same dusty gravel road that we were on. The tracker put on the spotlight, allowing us to have a clearer view of the pride. There were nine females and a male. The male busied himself smelling the rear of the females, seeking ones that were in “estros”. Jacqui told us that, had the male found any, he would have immediately mated with them.
“Male lions are capable of copulating up to eighty times a day”, Jacqui told us.
Lioness in grass
As the lions followed the dusty path it was a delight to watch the youngsters playing with one another, catching mothers’ tails and ambushing each other. It was just such a wonderful scene, and only when one young female turned round and came back to investigate us did we realise that these in fact were wild (and dangerous) animals.
Jacqui quietly said, “Just, stay still, don’t talk, and keep your arms inside the vehicle. She will loose interest”.
There was something magical about that moment of peering down face-to-face at a lioness less, than a meter away (3 feet), as it looked us over. The sides of the Land Rover were open, and in a second she could have attacked, but fortunately for us she didn’t.
With a flick of her tail and a backward glance as if to say “Not much of interest here”, she turned and wandered off to join the rest of the pride. We could all breathe again. Wow, what an experience!
Early the next morning we were on the trail again. This time we wanted to see the white rhino and buffalo. We snuggled into our blankets as a protection for the cold early morning air. Gradually the sky lightened and shadows appeared. But the air was clean and filled with the aroma of the African bush. As we paused, looking for early morning game at one spot, Jackie turned off the motor and we sat listening to the sounds of the bushveld. We hadn’t realised how noisy it was, with a blend of insect, bird and animal calls. It was very special.
The buffalo were easy to find, as they spent most of their time not far from one of two water holes on this side of the park. They are not attractive animals, and when they look at you, their huge crescent shaped horns appearing to weigh down their heads, they seem to have a feeling of sadness in their eyes. Well, that could change, rapidly, if you got too close. In fact, the buffalo was always regarded as being the number one in the list of game hunter’s Big-5. By reputation they vie with the hippopotamuses as being Africa’s most dangerous animals.
The white rhino was a more difficult creature to find. They prefer to hide in areas that have good cover. They also blend almost perfectly into their surroundings. But our spotter was up to the task, and after twenty minutes of searching, he signalled that a rhino was off to our right. It was a mother with her young calf. She was very protective of the youngster and it required patience on our driver’s part before we could get close enough to take some decent photos. We were surprised to learn that the white rhino is, in fact, black, not white, and that the name had probably come about by a mistranslation of an Afrikaans word for “wide”, as is the shape of its mouth. Its wide mouth makes it ideal for grazing.
We made our way back for breakfast. As the management had found out that this was our wedding anniversary, a bottle of champagne was provided, and a breakfast fit for a King and Queen served. Together with the company of the Coles and Hammonds, it was the perfect way to celebrate the day.
After breakfast we asked if we could visit the Tree Camp, a short distance away. This camp consists of 6 suites with en-suite facilities. The site is located facing the Sand River, and is surrounded by large, shady trees. The lounge is set back from a large wooden veranda, which is built on stilts elevated over the river. Each of the private suites had their own private deck with a cascading plunge pool, and an elevated walkway extending into the treetops. The menu is very similar to the Main Camp, but the camp offers a greater level of service, and is more exclusive, carrying a higher price tag.
The building program, new experiences and facilities have been added to the resort since our visit. New programs, such as the Photographic Safari, are now offered. A full range of photographic, sound and video equipment is available. To us, it seemed impossible to improve upon the perfect safari experience. But that has been part of the Varty model too, always seeking to improve upon the quintessential experience.
It was time to say farewell to Londolozi. Packing up and settling the account is always the difficult part of any stay. Yes, it was expensive by any standards, but we both agreed that it had been a priceless experience.
Short flights carried us on to Johannesburg, where we changed flights to Port Elizabeth. It was time for my first Grey High School Reunion. It was over 20 years since I had left South Africa, and great changes had occurred in that time. I had lived there during the time of apartheid, and now this barrier had been broken down. But rather than describe my visit there, a few years later I returned to South Africa for another Class Reunion, and on this trip managed to include some days in Cape Town, a trip up the Garden Route (between Cape Town and Port Elizabeth), and a visit to two Cape safari parks. Here are some of the details of these visits, together with a commentary about life in South Africa, both current and past.
***
I’ve been to Cape Town many times, and I always feel something special when I visit there. It is one of those world cities that is dramatically located. The most memorable experience is to approach Cape Town by sea, early morning, when the sun has just climbed over the horizon to highlight the sometimes craggy, and sometimes forest-covered lower slopes of Table Mountain. The mountain is a geographic oddity that compares with the mesas of Monument Valley and the mountains that surround Rio de Janeiro, Brazil. The top is over 1,000 meters (3,300 feet) high, and it is almost flat. It can be covered with a low white cloud, which the locals refer to as the “tablecloth”. Off to its right is Lion Head, and the city of Cape Town is spread across its feet. The outer suburbs spread out beyond Cape Town along the mountain’s flanks. It is a dramatic setting.
Cape Town is without doubt, the most exciting city in South Africa. Here you’ll find history, art, culture, amazing Cape Dutch architecture, a wonderful botanic garden, legendary sports grounds for cricket and rugby (now add the World Cup), great eating places, sandy beaches and the distant wineries of Paarl and Stellenbosch.
It is one of the largest cities in Africa, with a large land area and greater Cape Town population approaching 4 million people. The most populous racial group is referred to as coloureds, then Africans, and then whites. The city is multicultural by nature, with people from many lands having been woven into its complex social infrastructure.
The Cape’s European history started when Jan van Riebeck, a Dutchman, landed at the Cape in 1652. It remained a Dutch colony until taken over by Great Britain in 1785 (after concerns related to the Napoleonic Wars) and again, permanently in 1806. A form of Dutch was spoken in the early days, and this developed into the Afrikaans language, which is still spoken today. Afrikaans and English have equal status in South Africa today, but the language most popularly spoken is Afrikaans.
After the British conquests, attempts were made to populate the Cape with people from the British Isles. Port Elizabeth, for example, was a small settlement until the arrival of the 1820 British Settlers. The spread of English custom and law, and the abolition of slavery, caused six thousand farmers of Dutch heritage to leave the Cape and trek north into the interior of the land. This became known as the Great Trek.
The independent states of the Orange Free State, and Transvaal were formed as a result of the Great Trek. The discovery of gold in the north, now the city of Johannesburg, in 1886, threw the country into a gold rush. After the Anglo-Boer War (1899 - 1902) the colonies were amalgamated into a dominion of the British Empire, the Union of South Africa. The Nationalist Party came to power in 1948 and began to formulate and adopt the policies that eventually led to the apartheid laws. The government’s support base came from the descendants of those who had fought in the Boer War. South Africa became a republic in 1961. The first non-racial elections were held in 1994 when South Africa elected its first non-white government, led by Nelson Mandela.
The above information might be helpful for those wanting to better understand the underlying social and political events in South Africa.
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The route from Cape Town to Port Elizabeth that we’d decided to follow was the 770 km (478 miles) Garden Route. On many maps this is marked as route N2. The road is good and the route is scenic after coming back to the coast at Mossel Bay. Although it can be done in one day, we’d chosen to do it in two days, with an overnight stop near Plattenberg Bay.
Many of the best locations along the Garden Route are situated off the main road, and it takes a little perseverance to sort out the best of them. The first is the university city of Stellenbosch, which is located in a spectacular wine growing region, set against a mountain backdrop. The detour off the road and a quick look around the centre of Stellenbosch can be done in two hours. The examples of Cape Dutch architecture are some of the best in South Africa. Further on is the historic town of Swellendam, with its Old Goal, museum and good coffee shops. History continues in Heidelberg with a number of beautiful old buildings and mountain backdrops. The Langeberg Mountains continue with the Sleeping Beauty Mountain Peak near Riversdale. For those with more time, the side road to the old fishing village of Witsands is worth considering. Nearby is a similar settlement with near perfect beaches, Stilbaai. There are a number of attractive Cape Dutch style houses and thatched cottages in the area.
Wine area near Stellenbosch
We passed through Albertinia, the home of the Aloe plant, and a town renowned for its dried flower industry. We lunched in Mossel Bay, a town with a small attractive harbour and two north-facing beaches made up of mile after mile of unspoilt coastline. Mossel Bay has lots of interests for tourists: a first class museum, sporting venues including bungy jumping, abseiling, mountain biking, shark-cage diving, scuba-diving, fishing, yachting and other water-sports. Golf enthusiasts will not be disappointed.
The N2 route from Mossel Bay to Knysna has a number of off the road Bays and river mouth communities that are worth visiting. The road north to Oudtshoorn was tempting, as there is a lot to see there, but we’d set our schedule and needed to stick to it. We chose to explore the area around Knysna.
For people with three days to spare, I’d recommend taking the northern route R62 to Oudshooorn, and then the B12 down to rejoin the N2 at the Wilderness. The Oudshoorn area has a lot to offer. Apart from being the commercial centre of the region, it is the ostrich capital of the world. There are more than 700 ostrich farms in the Cape. Many are working farms that encourage paying tourists, and some are just set up for tourists. The ostrich is unique to Africa and unlike its counterparts in Australia, the emu and the South American rhea, neither of which have the plumage and colour of the African ostrich.
The area is one of the most mountainous in South Africa, and an excellent area for hiking, climbing and abseiling. Another “must see” in the area are the Cango Caves, which are just 29 kilometers (18 miles) from Oudtshoorn. This is a breathtaking underground wonderland network of caves. Here, over thousands of years, Nature has created a display of calcium deposits in caverns filled with carved dripstones and other limestone formations. The caves, with vast and soaring ceilings, are lit by sequences of coloured lights, and provide an ever-changing vista of the natural formations. After a visit there whilst I was in my teens, I learned the difference between stalactites and stalagmites.
History too, abounds, and the Jewish Synagogue is a highlight. The synagogue was built about 1886 by the 250 person Jewish family of settlers who were attracted to the town. Many were connected in some way with the ostrich trade. This might explain why a number of the guest-houses are called ostrich palaces, having been formerly Jewish residences. After the decline of the sale of ostrich feathers, the then 600 Jewish families in the area sold out, and many moved to other parts of South Africa.
The historic theme is continued in the nearby towns of Ladismith, Montagu and Calitzdorp. The later is known for its port wine, but there are wineries scattered throughout this region, which is also renowned for its wonderful selection of cheeses and preserved meats. Many of the guest-houses are white, lime-washed, old Cape Dutch style residences.
But history and cuisine apart, the stunning beauty of the scenery is worth the effort of exploring further afield. Some of the most scenic involve driving up unsealed roads over a number of passes. The best of these include the Seweweekspoort, Huisriverr and Schoemanspoort passes. Your car might get a little dusty, but it will wash off.
Back on the Coastal Road, there was a lot to see around Knysna, a town situated on an inlet where the Knysna River meets the sea. The Lagoon, as it is locally known, has attractive views from the south and north shores of the inlet. It offers opportunities for both day and evening sailing. Golfers had a choice of two golf courses. We enjoyed stretching our legs along the Knysna Waterfront.
Twenty minutes later we came to the town of Plattenberg Bay, which is attractively located with mountains in the background and miles of spectacular pristine beaches. The view just south of Plattenberg Bay from the lookout facing north is spectacular, both early morning and late afternoon, as the wave after waves breaks on their way to the beach. These stretch into the distance and merge with the hillsides in a form of hazy whiteout.
We had been recommended a Guest House off the main road. Finding it proved a challenge, but once we were there it was very comfortable. Plettenberg Bay is also the home of a Game Reserve that offers 2-hour game drives, and we debated whether we would spend our time there or use the time to explore the hamlets along the coast. We decided upon the later.
Beach Plettenberg Bay
The next morning, we explored Plettenberg Bay environs, including the lighthouse, which is still in use. Turning north, we explored Keurboomstrand and Natures Valley near Grootrivier. We drove up the Bloukrans Pass, which I remember as this twisty, dusty, unsealed (unpaved) road, but is now tar sealed. We stopped briefly at the gorge of the Storms River. Unfortunately the road down to the Storms River mouth was closed due to road washaway. Two hours later we drove into Port Elizabeth. We were staying with some Rotary friends, Nancy and George, in the suburb of Walmer.
Port Elizabeth is 770-kilometers (478 miles) from Cape Town. It is a major port in South Africa. The city itself dates back to the time of the 1820 British Settlers, but a fort exists on the hill overlooking the city, that dates back to 1799 when it was built as a defence against possible landings by the French. Know as the “Windy City”, it now has a population of about 1.2 million.
I came to live in Port Elizabeth quite by accident. With my parents and brother, I had landed in Cape Town in 1948 as migrants from Great Britain. We motored along the Garden Route, which was starkly different then to what it is today, arriving for an overnight stay in Port Elizabeth. We were on route to Johannesburg, but here “lady luck” was to intervene. While we were parked in a small shopping street, a cart loaded with firewood and pulled by 16 donkeys passed our near new car, and one of the traces managed to hook into the front bumper of our car. The driver, unaware of this, used the whip to urge the donkeys on, thus ripping the bumper off our car. The resulting repairs, police report and insurance paperwork took 4 days to resolve. We were staying in the caravan park near Humewood, in a caravan that Dad had bought in Cape Town. This gave us the opportunity to get to know Port Elizabeth, and to meet a number of other British migrants staying in the caravan park. So started my 18 years in Port Elizabeth.
Within a couple of months, my Dad had started up a custom-built caravan building business that grew to be the largest in South Africa. Come January, I was shuffled off to school at the Grey Junior/High School, where I spent ten years. I still have fond memories of those carefree days, and I now realise that, quite by accident, I had attended a school that turned out to be one of the finest in South Africa.
Grey High School first started in 1856 and, whereas on the previous visit I’d come to attend the 150th anniversary of the school, this time I had come back to attend the 50th anniversary of our final year at the school. Somehow it seemed strange that we’d left these hallowed corridors of the school fifty years ago. As many of my classmates had left Port Elizabeth and moved to other parts of South Africa and overseas, only twenty nine of our year of 104 students attended the reunion, but those who did had a fabulous time. Eddie Hurr, the head boy in 1958, with a committee had organised six days of activities, celebrations and visits to the school.
These started off with a convoy of five 4WDs, heading northeast for an overnight stay at the Amakhala Game Reserve, near the town of Addo. In the past twenty years a number of farms have been converted to game reserves, stocked with wildlife and 4 or 5-star accommodations set up. We stayed at the Country House at Leeuwenbosch, which has been the family home of the Fowlds family for five generations. The farm is one of five farms that combined to form the Amakhala Game Park. The house was small but comfortable, and we had first-rate accommodation in one of the four Shearer’s Sheds that had been upgraded to provide luxury accommodation. The hospitality and service were first class.
After a fabulous lunch put on in a bush setting at a site overlooking the reserve, where with binoculars we could spot various groups of animals on the move, we started a tour of the park in two rather crowded Land Rovers.
We were fortunate to see a wide range of antelopes, a black rhino, a small group of elephants, a couple of giraffes, heaps of smaller animals like warthogs and, just as the sun was setting, we came across a pride of lions resting in the tall grass. The male lion, with a magnificent mane, lay apart from the group of lionesses and infants, watching proceedings with indifferent interest. This was followed by a magnificent red sky sunset. Afterwards we had a traditional BBQ with a variety of game meats and, over coffee, a number of us sat under a canopy of the stars, chatting. We had a lot of catching up to do after 50 years.
Buck at Addo
The following morning we motored about 100-kilometers (60 miles) to the Addo Elephant Park. I’d been there a number of times as a child when, for a small fee, we could sit in a car at one of two lookouts over a waterhole, and watch the elephant herd come down to eat the oranges left out for them, and drink at the waterhole. Since then the park had been enlarged, upgraded and now provides viewing of the full spectrum of African wildlife, including 450 elephants. All of these could be seen from the comfort of your own car. The only two animals that we didn’t see were the leopards and spotted hyenas, but had we stayed later, until sundown, we might have seen them.
The remaining four days of the reunion were a blur of lunches, dinners, outings, concerts and visits to the school. On some days, a separate program had been arranged for our partners, and Jill enjoyed this too. The four highlights were a formal dinner, a Robert Selley Musical Concert at the Feather Market Hall, attending an assembly at the school, and being guests at a special Trooping the Colour parade by the Grey cadets.
A formal dinner is held annually to celebrate the anniversary of the founding of the school. This serves as a reunion opportunity for many of the Old Boys. So, we were not the only class celebrating. A small group of boys that had left the school in 1933 were celebrating. The Old Grey organised affair was large, well catered and a great opportunity for catching up with boys from other years that we’d known in our school years. The guest speaker was Cliff Drysdale who is known for his tennis success as a two time Wimbledon Doubles winner and Singles semi-finalist. Cliff is one of our Class of 58, and at school he was a close friend.
The Robert Selley Concert at the Feather Market Hall was another highlight. The hall is more like an auditorium, with decorated columns, and a high ribbed vaulted ceiling. It is huge and, true to its name, was once the location for the sale of ostrich feathers. Such was the trade at the time that it was built. I remember it as a somewhat undistinguished building used as a roller skating rink, but not anymore. It had had a major facelift, and its former glory revived. The concert was put on by a collaboration of the Grey Junior School and the Grey High School. Both schools have richness in musical performance, and the concert was a series of excellent renditions of music. The Old Boys with a music background felt a pride in being part in such excellence.
I will always remember that at about age 11, sitting on the floor of the school’s assembly hall, wearing my brand new uniform, looking around at the pictures on the walls of former rectors over the previous 100 years of the schools history, I felt very small and insignificant. Fast-forward six years when, as senior boys about to matriculate, we attended our last assembly. A lot had happened in the years in-between. Now we sat as guests of the school, in the Mezzanine level at a school assembly. The format of the assembly had changed too. Gone were the days where all the masters sat on stage, and the rector made announcements and presentations. Now, after the welcome by the rector, the head boy and school prefects handled much of the assembly. The school rugby captain, an African, came forward to give the boys a warm-up for the forthcoming Rugby XI Saturday’s match against Rondebosch Boys High, a long time rival.
“Are we going to win?”, he roared.
“We’re going to win”, the boys chanted back.
But the grand finale was the singing of the school song. As I looked along the line of our Class of 58, there was hardly a dry eye. Such were our memories.
Tower Grey High
School cadets has been a tradition at Grey High since the 1920’s. Over the years the standard, dress, and performance developed until, today, the Trooping the Colour ceremony is regarded as a highlight of the school year. I have many fond memories of my days in cadet uniform. One of the highlights of the reunion was the special performance of the Trooping of the Colour. The school band now had smart red tunics and long, dark blue slacks with a red stripe, and a dark blue peaked, flat cap. Apart from that, little had changed in 50 years. The boys now carried lighter ceremonial rifles, whereas, in 1958, the senior cadets carried ex WW1 303 rifles, which were a real handful. The band played the traditional selections, and every manoeuvre was carried out to perfection. It must have been quite a lot of pressure on the boys, knowing that old boys who too had done this performance over the previous years were watching with a critical eye. I know just how they felt as they marched off the front field of the school after a sterling performance. Relief, mixed with pride. The school has always set high expectations of performance, and now, with an increasing number of Africans at the school, this expectation will serve as a model to all who live in South Africa.
Like all good things, our vacation had to end and after six wonderful days. We flew to Johannesburg, where we stayed with our friends, Ian and Rose, in a suburb between Johannesburg and the national capital, Pretoria. We spent the next morning exploring the National Botanical Gardens. This 77-hectare (190 acre) garden is the largest in South Africa. It is divided into a number of climatic areas, each representing an area of South Africa - the savannas of the Karoo, the coastal forests, and the grasslands of the Transvaal. A paved trail took us through each of these in turn, each populated with representative species of plants and trees. Over 5,000 are on display. Afterwards we enjoyed resting our legs in the cool pavilion off the park.
Afterwards we had time to visit the site of South Africa’s national parliament. Set in impressive and sweeping grounds, the Union Building as it is still called, dates back to 1913. The building is long at 275-meters in length and built in an English style, from light sandstone. It was designed by the architect, Sir Herbert Baker, and features a curved colonnaded centrepiece flanked by two separate wings, each with an impressive tower. Apart from the function of government, part of the building is also the home of the South African President, and his office.
South Africa became a Republic in 1961. It held its first fully democratic elections in 1994.
As we walked through the gardens we came across statues to former South African Prime Ministers, Louis Botha, J B Hertzog and J C Smuts. At night the building is illuminated and provides a wonderful display of the stability, power and permanence of the parliament of this fledgling nation.
The federation of the former independent states to form the country the Union of South Africa, was a difficult process, with little trust between the Afrikaners, defeated by the British in the Boer War, and the powerbrokers of the British Empire. Consequently, a rather complex parliamentary system evolved. The Parliament sits in Cape Town for approximately six months of the year, and during the remaining period sits in Pretoria. As a compromise, Cape Town was designated the legislative capital, Bloemfontein the judicial capital, and Pretoria the administrative capital.
The current government, the African National Congress (ANC) has proposed moving Parliament to Pretoria permanently, arguing that the present arrangement is cumbersome, as ministers and civil servants have to move back and forth when Parliament is in session. However, many Capetonians are against this move, suggesting that the ANC is trying to centralize power. The debate continues.
A visit to the Voortrekker Monument on the outskirts of Pretoria is a must for anyone wanting to understand the complexities of South African politics, both past and current.
The monument is a massive granite structure, built in honor of a group of Afrikaners and others, who left the Cape because of their opposition to British rule and the effect of the abolition of slavery. They became known as the Voortrekkers. In South Africa, this movement of some 6,000 families was called the Great Trek. This occurred between 1835 and 1854. The architect, Gerard Moerdijk, who designed the monument had the belief that he was designing a "monument that would stand a thousand years to describe the history and the meaning of the Great Trek to its descendants”. It can be seen from almost any location in the city, as it sits on a hilltop.
The main entrance of the monument leads into the domed Hall of Heroes. This massive space, flanked by four huge arched windows that are made from yellow Belgian glass, contains a series of unique marble friezes that show the history of the Great Trek. It is believed to be the biggest marble frieze in the world. It consists of 27 bas-relief panels depicting various events that happened during the Great Trek. The intricate images provide references to daily life, the toils of the trekkers, and their religion. The set of panels depict events from the first Voortrekkers of 1835, and continue to the time of the Sand River Convention in 1852, which was when the trekkers rights were recognized by the British.
The centre of the floor of the Hall of Heroes has a large circular opening through which the Cenotaph in the Cenotaph Hall can be viewed. This is the central focus of the monument. It is from the dome at the top of the building, from where much of the interior of the monument can be viewed, that a ray of sunlight shines at twelve o'clock on 16 December annually, falling onto the centre of the Cenotaph, highlighting the words 'Ons vir Jou, Suid-Afrika', in Afrikaans which means 'We for Thee, South Africa'. The ray of light is believed to symbolize God's blessing on the Voortrekkers. December 16, 1838 was the date of the Battle of Blood River, which was when a major victory over the legendary Zulu chief Dingaan was achieved. This was the turning point in the power of the Zulus, and the co-existence of both Voortrekkers and Africans in the states of Orange Free State and Transvaal. These events were pivotal in the formation of the South African nation.
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